{"id":6737,"date":"2025-03-22T16:43:12","date_gmt":"2025-03-22T16:43:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/liviopastorino.com\/?p=6737"},"modified":"2025-03-22T17:50:42","modified_gmt":"2025-03-22T17:50:42","slug":"memorias-de-pisco-y-de-ica-entre-vinedos-destiladores-y-libros","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/liviopastorino.com\/en\/memorias-de-pisco-y-de-ica-entre-vinedos-destiladores-y-libros\/","title":{"rendered":"\"Memories of Pisco and Ica: Among Vineyards, Distillers, and Books.\""},"content":{"rendered":"
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\"Memories of Pisco and Ica: Among Vineyards, Distillers, and Books.\"\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\u201cThe history of Pisco is not only found in the vineyards or the centuries-old distilleries of Ica but also in the memories of those who had the privilege of living it up close. This personal chronicle is a tribute to the master distillers, to the Mojoneros Tasters \u2014historic figures of the wine and pisco production chain since 1567\u2014, and to the books that preserve the soul of our national spirit. An intimate journey into the roots of a legacy that Peru has been distilling for over four centuries.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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While working in Ica, I was once offered the chance to plant Quebranta grapes. The first thing that came to my mind was Pisco. Over the years, I had shared unforgettable moments with Ique\u00f1o friends and people who worked with us\u2014many of them not even from Ica. Those gatherings taught me a great deal.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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In Ica, Pisco was served straight from the clay jars into pitchers, usually in cool, shaded places, especially during the summer months. I was invited to visit old distilleries where time seemed frozen. There, ancient tools were still in use: the falca\u2014a large copper pot with a calicanto (lime mortar) lid\u2014, the copper still and its endless coil submerged in the cooling pool, the channels through which the must flowed to begin distillation, and the furnace where wood was burned to start the process. Everything was old; there was no electricity. I remember that at night we lit the place with kerosene lamps\u2014unbelievable. Yet there we were, determined to make Pisco\u2014a product I would later learn has been crafted in Peru for over 400 years.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Eventually, I left my work in the fields. To this day, I cannot remember who gifted me the book \"Peruanidad del Pisco\" by C\u00e9sar \u00c1ngeles Caballero. Those were hectic years, when our only focus was meeting the needs of the estate and moving forward with our projects. We were tasked with planting eight more hectares of Pisco grapes, leaving little room for anything else. So much so that I forgot entirely about that book. I shelved it in my library and didn\u2019t see it again until I took the Pisco Specialist and Taster course at the Instituto del Vino y del Pisco (IDVIP). Dr. Luciano Revoredo taught Pisco History, and I clearly remember how, during one class, he lifted that very book and told us it was mandatory reading. I was stunned. The moment I got home, I searched for it and began reading.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Another book that left a lasting impression on me\u2014also a gift\u2014is Chronicles and Accounts on the Origin and Virtues of Pisco, Traditional Beverage and Cultural Heritage of Peru, published by Banco Latino. I believe every Pisco lover should have a copy of this book. It contains old photographs, chronicles, and vintage labels, offering a rich historical account of our national spirit.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Later, I discovered Dr. Lorenzo Huertas\u2019 book Chronology of Wine and Pisco Production (1548\u20132010). In its pages, I came across several names of people I had the pleasure of meeting in Ica. One of them was Jos\u00e9 Carri\u00f3n\u2014\u201cTo\u00f1o\u201d\u2014who rented me a room in the early days of his hotel, El Huarango. To\u00f1o often showed me the antiques he collected while we shared a few Piscos. However, what truly caught my attention was the mention of the Jhong family, of Chinese origin, owners of La Esperanza Hacienda (page 228). Coincidentally, it was a member of the Jhong family who distilled the Pisco from our Quebranta grapes.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Miguel Jhong, one of Don Toribio Jhong\u2019s sons and cousin of Carlos Aquije Cabrera\u2014administrator of the Villacur\u00ed estate\u2014was that man. I took Don Miguel to the fields to show him the vineyards and explain our plans to expand the planting of Pisco grapes. As we walked the land, I shared my concern about securing financing. Don Miguel stopped and said:<\/p>

\u2014\"No. From this field, you get what you need for the next, and from that one, for the next, and so on.\"<\/p>

I replied:<\/p>

\u2014\"There\u2019s no time for that, Don Miguel.\"<\/p>

He looked at me intently and answered:<\/p>

\u2014\"That... that is greed. That\u2019s not how things work.\"<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It\u2019s remarkable how these three books brought back memories of my years in Ica\u2014and especially of the great Miguel Jhong, a true master distiller. It was an honor to have met him. He taught me everything about Pisco and the art of its distillation\u2014an art he had mastered since the age of sixteen when fate led him to take over La Esperanza Hacienda, owned by his family.<\/p>

Drink responsibly. See you next time!

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By Livio Pastorino Wagner\nSommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster\nRegistration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011\n
@elmagozurdo<\/a>

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march 2025<\/p>

Pisco & music<\/p>