Livio Pastorino

Arequipa "Pisco Region"

Revista Cocktail editión No 59, grateful for the opportunity.

During one of my visits to Arequipa, I was surprised to find spirits made from Quebranta grape pomace, as well as an Arequipan Grappa. Grappa is a pomace brandy made in Italy. In Europe, they usually make wine and use the pomace for distillates. In Ica, as I remember, the pomace was used to make vinegar or simply discarded. Since pisco is made from fresh grape must, what can be done with the pomace? It is okay to use it to make a spirit as long as the word "pisco" is not used to name it. Furthermore, there's a regulation that governs alcoholic beverages. Ultimately, the consumer will decide which one to purchase. In the case of Grappa, it's a Appelation of Origin. Therefore, it should not be used as a brand name.

Regarding pisco, Arequipa has 9 valleys where our National Cultural Heritage is produced. These are: Caraveli, Ocoña, Camana, Majes Aplao, Quilca, Vitor, La Joya, and Tambo. The judges panel of "Noches de Cata con Pisco" (Pisco Tasting Evenings), have tasted piscos from 5 of the 9 valleys, with very good results in varieties such as Negra Criolla (Black Creole), and Moscatel (Muscat). Arequipa shines with these two grape varieties, especially Caraveli. Arequipa is the third region with 9% of pisco grape growing area. It has valleys from 0 to 450 meters above sea level (m.a.s.l): Ocoña, Camana, Quilca, Acari, and valleys from 500 to 1100 m.a.s.l. such as Caraveli, Vitor, and La Joya. The Arequipan valley is open to the coast and the highlands, creating an oasis between the desert and the mountain ranges. Also, volcanic cones are formed by Misti, Chachani, and Pichu Pichu, providing mineral sensations in some of its piscos. The climate is dry in winter, autumn, and spring. There are approximately 300 sunny days and 4000 annual hours of sunlight, favorable conditions for viticulture.

It is also known as "the city of eternal blue sky." The temperature is 25°C in the rainy season (December-March). It hardly ever rains. In winter (June-July), the temperature is around 6°C. The dry climate helps to feel the cold with less intensity. The relative humidity ranges from 46% to a maximum of 70% in summer and a minimum of 27% during autumn, winter, and spring. Wine tourism has been well implemented in Arequipa. They have established the Day of Arequipan Pisco under Regional Ordinance No. 367, celebrated every year on last Saturday of September. They also have a Pisco Route divided into North, Central, and South Zones, where visitors can go to wineries, taste pisco & wine, try local cuisine, and take walks through the vineyards. Everything is well-organized.

Although Negra Criolla (Black Creole) and Moscatel (Muscat) piscos are, in my opinion the best, this does not mean that other varieties cannot be found. I have tasted Arequipan piscos made from Torontel, Quebranta, and Italia grapes: fresh, balanced, typical, with excellent quality, well-marked aromatic sensations, elegance on the palate, great persistence, and a finish that recalls dried fruits and citrus peel. Dare to try them. I'm sure good times are coming for pisco. Enjoy pisco responsibly.

Til next time!

By Livio Pastorino Wagner Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo

Cocktail Magazine No. 59, december 04, 2022.

 

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December 2022

 

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