Aromas of Time: Moscatel and Italia
Placeres magazine edition No 20 grateful for the opportunity
“Only a thousand bottles?” asked one of the foreign participants after a talk on how to appreciate pisco.
“Yes,” I replied, adding: “That’s what the back label says — 1,000 bottles, and this one is number 765.”
What happened next was fascinating. As I was gathering my things to leave, I felt someone slip something into the pocket of my jacket. When I reached in, I found a 50-sol bill. I looked up and saw the participant walking briskly away, carrying — if I remember correctly — three quarters or half a bottle of that extraordinary Italia pisco we had just tasted. I could only smile.
We sometimes experience situations like this with visitors from other parts of the world: they value our national spirit perhaps even more than we do, to the point of paying whatever it takes to have a bottle, even if it’s unsealed or not for sale.
The Italia Grape: History and Essence
Today we focus on the pisco grape known in Peru as Italia — the second most widely planted and second most used for pisco production, after our beloved Quebranta.
Why do we call it “Italia”?
The name may derive from Italian immigrants who promoted it, or from a historical confusion with its cultivation in Italy. In reality, it is Muscat of Alexandria (VIVC 8231, according to the Vitis International Variety Catalogue), but the name “Italia” also refers to another grape: Pirovano 65 (VIVC 23924), used both for pisco distillation and as a table grape.
Originally from the Mediterranean — probably from Alexandria, Egypt — Muscat of Alexandria arrived in Peru in the 16th century, brought by the Spaniards from the Canary Islands for winemaking. The Jesuits, experts in agriculture, planted these vines in the valleys of Ica, Lima, Arequipa, Moquegua, and Tacna, where the rich soils and warm climate enhanced their aromatic character.
From San Francisco to Peru: An Aromatic Legacy
In the 19th century, in San Francisco, the famous Pisco Punch was created — considered the first known cocktail made with pisco, prepared with Italia pisco. Researcher Guillermo Toro Lira described it as “a manifestation of Peru’s cultural mestizaje and its insertion into the world” (Toro Lira, G. 2006. Wings of Cherubs).
In the 20th century, another “Italia” reached our country: Pirovano 65 (VIVC 23924), known in Spain as Ideal or Doña Sofía. Created in 1911 by Ángelo Pirovano through the cross Bicane × Muscat of Hamburg, this variety, with large, oval, green-yellow berries and a muscat-like flavor, became a star both in distillation and as a table grape. It was introduced in Peru between the 1960s and 1970s.
Today, it is believed that production of Muscat of Alexandria exceeds that of Pirovano 65.
Identity and Regulation
The Reglamento de la Denominación de Origen Pisco (CRDO-PISCO, 2011) includes eight varieties, listing “Italia” and “Moscatel” as distinct, but without explicitly mentioning Muscat of Alexandria or Pirovano 65. In practice, the term “Italia” encompasses both aromatic varieties.
Studies by Peruvian and Argentine universities confirm that Muscat of Alexandria, with its ancient lineage, is perfectly adapted to the warm soils of Ica.
Sensory Profile of Italia Pisco
Nose: fresh. Despite its high alcohol content, the aromatic intensity of Italia conceals the alcohol. Notes of tropical fruits (pineapple, mango, passion fruit), flowers (jasmine, orange blossom), citrus (lime), raisins, and a hint of fresh grass.
Palate: warm entry, medium alcohol, flavors consistent with the nose, slight spiciness, notes of citrus peel (lime), medium-long persistence (over 20 seconds, a sign of quality), and a fruity finish.
A Promising Future
The Pisco D.O., for now, excludes other muscats, such as Black Italia (Muscat of Hamburg) and Pink Muscat, despite their similar aromatic profiles. This adds a touch of mystery to the world of pisco.
I am confident that, with the growing momentum of Peruvian viticulture, the vineyards of our pisco grapes will continue to expand. Enjoy pisco responsibly.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Placeres magazine No 20 octubre 07 del 2025
Pisco & music
october 2025
Where pisco is the only protagonist!
#lapiscoteca #piscosour #winelover #pisco #pasionporlacata #bar #elpiscoesdelperu #vino #vinosdelperu #pisco #piscolover #Lima #Peru #Moquegua #Tacna #Arequipa #Ica #piscopunch #piscosour #piscotonic #capitan #chilcanodepisco
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