Two different spirits
Cocktail Magazine edition No. 64, grateful for the opportunity.
I have been asked several times about the difference between pisco and the spirit produced in Chile. I won't discuss the issue of pisco's Peruvian origin, as I consider that matter settled. For those who desire more information on the topic, it can be found on the web or in books published by historians and researchers. My analysis is more of a personal, technical, and hedonistic appreciation based on sensory experience with both spirits.
Initially, these distilled beverages are completely different. Pisco is made from 8 specific grape varieties known as pisco grapes (uvas pisqueras). The Quebranta grape is our native grape, the most widely produced, and it only grows in Peru. It's the perfect base for a Pisco Sour. According to Jancis Robinson's "Wine Grapes," Quebranta is a natural crossbreed of two grape varieties brought by the conquistadors in the 16th century: Listan Prieto (also known as mission grape) and Negramoll (Negra Molle).
In Chile, they use muscat grapes for their spirit, which are more aromatic. In Peru, the second most produced grape variety is Italia,
a crossbreed between Biscame and Moscatel de Hamburgo. Furthermore, it's the most aromatic among the 8 varieties.
According to the current Pisco Appelation of Origin Regulation, pisco is classified as follows:
(i) Puro (Pure): made from a single variety of pisco grape (8 varieties),
(ii) Mosto verde (Green must): obtained from distilling fresh musts of pisquera grapes with interrupted fermentation,
(iii) Acholado (Blended): obtained from the blend of pisquera grapes, grape musts, fully fermented fresh musts (fresh wines), and piscos from more or less aromatic pisco grapes. In Peru, pisco can only be produced with alcohol content ranging from 38% to 48% by volume. Piscos with 38% and 39% are not produced.
In Chile, the classification is based on alcohol content
(Decree No. 521 of 2000):
-30°: Regular Spirit,
-35°: Special,
-40°: Reserved,
-43° and above: Premium.
According to our Appelation of Origin Regulation, pisco is transparent, colorless, without suspended particles, it's not diluted, it does not age, it is distilled to proof, and the distillation process is batch-wise and discontinuous. In Chile, multiple distillations, dilution, and aging are allowed. They also produce clear spirits above 40°. Most premium Chilean spirits are aged.
It's the consumer who will decide which spirit to choose. In terms of aroma, we find similarities with the white spirits from Chile made with muscat grapes. The aromas are immediately perceived. The same applies to pisco. There are differences in taste when it comes
to the lingering sensation on the palate after swallowing or discarding the product. We measure this by counting up to 15 seconds for a regular pisco,
and if it's 20 seconds or more, it is considered a super pisco. In the case of Chilean spirits, their persistence in the mouth is weak and disappears quickly,
whereas in pisco, it remains for a few seconds. This strength is partly due to the fact that pisco is not diluted. Additionally, its undiluted alcohol content is over 40°.
Pisco is distilled to proof once, meaning it rests as it comes out of the pot still (according to the regulation, for 3 months). In my opinion, the best piscos are above 42°. That sensation of strength in the mouth and its lingering presence make a significant difference. In Chile, very few white spirits above 42° are produced. I'm not discussing quality since both spirits, with their own characteristics, are well made. Enjoy pisco responsibly.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Cocktail Magazine No. 64, may 05, 2023.
Cocktail magazine (spanish) in issuu
Pisco & music
May 2023
Where pisco is the only protagonist!
#lapiscoteca #piscosour #winelover #pisco #pasionporlacata #bar #elpiscoesdelperu #vino #vinosdelperu #pisco #piscolover #Lima #Peru #Moquegua #Tacna #Arequipa #Ica
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