Between Pisco & Nazca
Cocktail Magazine edition No. 40, grateful for the opportunity.
I received this lovely story and remembered that historian Lorenzo Huertas had mentioned it in one of his talks. Let's reminisce. Why was Pisco made in Peru? In the late 16th century, producers in Spain saw the importation of wine from the colony as a threat and sought to have it banned. Shortly thereafter, they prohibited the planting of vines, despite the fact that the vast majority of owners were of Spanish origin. Seeing this, vineyard owners switched to producing firewater (brandy), which they successfully exported. This protected their livelihoods & families. As we have mentioned, the solution was to make grape firewater, which over time acquired the name of the port of Pisco, from where it was shipped. It was also said that cane firewater, was made in Nazca and called "nazca."
According to this story, Pisco occupies its place in history and cane firewater is no longer consumed in Chincha, Pisco & Ica, but still in Nazca, as it's further away from the port of Pisco (south 219 km). Doubts arose as to which firewater was better, grape or cane, so they set about testing it. When the two firewaters were mixed, they got terribly drunk, affirming that they were "between Pisco & Nazca" (Cholo Matías). Why was it called pure Pisco? In those days, there were wineries that mixed Pisco with cane firewater. To differentiate themselves, Pisco producers included "pure Quebranta Pisco" on the label. A friend always asks me: "What do you mean by pure Pisco? Is there impure Pisco?".
Speaking of drinking Pisco, I remember that in the Villacuri Valley (Pampa de Villacurí-Ica), when the workweek ended, there was always a moment to sit under the cool shade of a ficus tree and have a Pisco. I didn't know the customs. I had drunk Pisco at my grandparents' and uncles' houses, each with their own glass. However, in Ica, when there are births, marriages, graduations, etc. a jug of Pisco, especially Quebranta, is always present. At these gatherings, we formed a circle to share, the Pisco arrived, and the person to my left served it, not without first pouring a few drops onto the ground for Pachamama (mother earth), payment to the earth. And they offered me the bottle: "Cheers with you," to which I responded: "Cheers with you. Thank you." Once the glass was empty, the same person cleaned it, shook it, and passed it to me. After pouring me a drink, they offered the bottle with "cheers to you" to my right, continuing the round successively until the jug was empty. Since I was relatively new to these things, I filled my glass to the top. Of course, by the third glass, I was asking for help, while a delicious mashed of peruvian beans (pallares), with pork fat & rice was being prepared.
Fortunately for me, the Pisco ran out just in time for lunch. Later, I found out that it wasn't necessary to fill the glass, let alone drink it in one gulp. Can you imagine my face? It's more than 42° vol/alc. No one fills the glass. Everyone drinks at their own pace. Some just wet their tongue & pass it on. I suggest sipping the Pisco little by little, like little kisses to truly enjoy it. Always drink responsibly.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Cocktail Magazine No. 40 may 05, 2021
Cocktail magazine in issuu
Pisco & music
May 2021
Where pisco is the only protagonist!
#lapiscoteca #piscosour #winelover #pisco #pasionporlacata #bar #elpiscoesdelperu #vino #vinosdelperu #pisco #piscolover #Lima #Peru #Moquegua #Tacna #Arequipa #Ica
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