Livio Pastorino

The Invisible Elegance of Albilla

Placeres magazine edition 19, grateful for the opportunity

Of the eight grape varieties authorized for pisco production by the Reglamento de la Denominación de Origen Pisco, Quebranta and Italia are the most widely planted and, therefore, the ones that yield the greatest volume of pisco. Quebranta, moreover, grows exclusively in Peru and is the only grape native to this part of the world. Most of its cultivation is concentrated in the Ica region. Italia, on the other hand, can be found across all five pisco-producing regions. Today, however, we will focus on another of the eight authorized grapes for pisco: Albilla, classified within the group of aromatic grapes, along with Italia, Moscatel, and Torontel. Yet, it is considered the least aromatic of the group, which gives it a unique subtlety.

It is said that Albilla cultivated in Peru is, in fact, the Palomino Fino variety, originally from Andalusia, Spain. It is registered in the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC) under its primary name: Palomino Fino. According to molecular and ampelographic studies conducted by the Centro de Innovación Productiva y Transferencia Tecnológica Agroindustrial Ica (CITE-Agroindustrial), the Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina, and INTA Mendoza, the accession of Albilla grown in Peru has been genetically identified as Palomino Fino, recorded in the VIVC under code VIVC 8888. It is also known by other names such as Albán, Albar, Listán Blanco, and Jerez, among others.

Albilla clusters are large, conical in shape, and can weigh up to 2 kg. The berries are round, medium-sized, and translucent. A curious detail: under sunlight, it is possible to see the seeds inside the clusters. Their color ranges from light green to yellow, with a thin skin. It is a very productive variety, which makes it ideal for viticulture. As for the sensory descriptors of piscos made from Albilla—bearing in mind that this grape is quite subtle in aroma—on the nose we find citrus notes, lime, white fruits, peach, apple, white flowers, jasmine, orange blossom, herbal infusions (such as chamomile and lemon verbena), herbal notes, fresh grass, and golden raisins.

On the palate, it reveals a warm, unctuous, velvety entry, with citrus notes, infusions, a slight sweetness, and golden raisins. It is a subtle, balanced, and harmonious pisco. In my own tasting experience, Albilla stands out as fresh, with hints of infusions like chamomile and lemon verbena, sweet notes of golden raisins, citrus, and a silky, unctuous texture. Overall, it is delicate on the nose, which makes it elegant and enigmatic. Albilla is cultivated mainly in the coastal pisco regions: Ica, Lima, Arequipa, Moquegua, and Tacna. In my opinion, the best examples come from Lima and Ica. It thrives in loam soils (a balanced mix of clay, silt, and sand), which retain water without suffocating the roots. Its pruning is simple, and the vine is generous in cluster production.

One of Albilla’s particularities is that it is not very sweet, resulting in a low alcoholic potential. For this reason, a double harvest is sometimes carried out: for wine and for pisco, it is picked between February and March, always seeking a balance between acidity and sweetness. Although it is not the most popular of the pisco grapes, its fresh and delicate profile makes it ideal for piscos puros, Acholados (Blended), and Green Must pisco (Mosto Verde), contributing notes of pear, peach, green apple, and lime. Enjoy pisco responsibly.
Til next time!

By Livio Pastorino Wagner Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo

Placeres magazine edition 19 september 08, 2025

Pisco & music

September 2025

Where pisco is the only protagonist!
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