Is pisco Uvina the most difficult to taste?
First of all, what is Uvina? According to the current Regulation of the Pisco Appelation of Origin: Uvina is a non-aromatic (less aromatic), grape variety for Pisco. Species: Vitis aestivalis M.- cinérea E. by Vitis vinifera L. Cultivation Area: Cultivation & production only limited to the districts of Lunahuana, Pacaran, and Zúñiga, in the province of Cañete, south of Lima region. Some of the Descriptors, In View: clear, colorless, and bright; In Aromas: olive, fresh fruit, dried fruit, fresh herbs, aromatic herbs; In Taste: sweet, astringent, slightly bitter, olive, fresh fruit, dried fruit, fresh herbs, dried herbs (Sensorial profiles of the 8 Pisco grapes UNALM June 2007 to September 2009).
In my opinion, one of the most difficult Piscos to taste is Uvina. Contradictory, it constantly challenges us with its structure, that sensation of olive oil, it intimidates, it's never the same, it changes constantly, I would even say temperamental, that's what fascinates me about its always demanding tasting. We can't taste Uvinas being light in our assessments; we have to take the necessary time, be concise, precise, and above all fair. One of the inconveniences we see is its similarity to the Quebrantas; there have been times when tasters at the table have indicated: "It must be a Uvina acholado (blended), with Quebranta, what does the label say?" they ask... it indicates that it's Uvina" There is no doubt about that; our appreciation goes beyond the first impression; it's a Quebranta with a defect. There is the issue; mistakes can be made in the evaluation by confusing it with Quebranta Piscos.
I have experienced this several times in tastings, and to avoid this, I suggest tasting the sample several times, aligning our senses, concentrating, mentally separating the descriptors of Quebranta and bringing those of Uvina.
Let's try this blind tasting exercise with 4 samples of Non-Aromatic Piscos, where 3 are Quebranta Piscos and one is Uvina, the question is: What do you think of the samples? opinions, is there any different one, indicate which one or ones? Also, what is the grape variety? Remember that we only know that there are 4 glasses of Non-Aromatic Piscos, with 4 grapes in that category: Quebranta, Mollar, Negra Criolla, and Uvina.
At the end of the exercise, Uvina is discarded due to a defect, not because it's Uvina. Our brain is conditioned to taste Quebranta; we associate Non-Aromatic grapes with a pattern of descriptors where our native grape Quebranta stands out. Now... could any of the tasters perceive that one of the samples is Uvina? Yes, don't forget that tasting is subjective.
A while ago, we were at the Wine & Pisco Institute tasting some peruvian wines; they presented us with two samples, a black Creole red, (negra criolla tinto), and a Moscatel (Muscat), white, they asked me, "Which one do you like most?" I answered the white one. The taster looked at me, smiled, and said, "You have Torontel grape in your brain, the aromas are what make you prefer it, beware it's not Pisco" totally true, my first impression was citrus and pineapple aromas.
In "Pisco Tasting Evenings", (nochesdecata.blogspot.com) when we work with the Uvinas variety, we always consider reviewing our evaluations to make sure we don't leave any doubts. We must be as meticulous as a surgeon during an operation, making sure nothing is overlooked. It's not the same as tasting other Pisco varieties, as Uvina requires special attention.
"The taster is a kind of accumulator of tasting experiences that he transmits to others with a more social than individual attitude to serve the defenseless poor of buyers. What joy to find "sustainability" in this profession..." (Emile Penaud). Enjoy pisco responsibly.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
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Cocktail Magazine No 13 July 18, 2017
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