modifying the regulations, Pisco Appellation of Origin Part 2
The working meeting in Ica was convened by Dr. Ray Meloni Garcia, Director of Distinctive Signs of (Indecopi), to discuss the proposal to modify the Regulations of Pisco Appellation of Origin, presented by the Regulatory Council of the Appellation of Origin.
The technical table was chaired by Eng. Lyris Monasterio. Among the attendees were several master distillers, winemakers, producers and tasters. Several issues were raised, among which was the use of selected yeasts (imported yeasts), which the current regulations don't prohibit, therefore, it has to be decided by majority vote whether to accept their use or not.
Eng. Edwin Torres master distiller from Bodega Viñas de Oro explained in which cases he had to resort to this type of yeast, especially when fermentation doesn't start naturally, which runs the risk of the must being vinegared and lost; also Eng. Carmen Gonzales master distiller from Bodega La Carabedo mentioned that this happened especially when grapes were acquired from third parties. We agree that imported selected yeasts should not be used, but in some cases it's necessary to specify. According to Eng. Carmen, not only Pisco producers should participate in these meetings, but also grape growers, a fundamental part of the production chain.
Eng Rodolfo Vasconi from Bodega Vista Alegre gave us more information on this subject, from his experience in the winery, according to the engineer we should not worry about whether we add selected yeasts or not, our native yeasts are very resistant.
He also told us that the yeasts do not come with artificial aromas, (they are aromas of the variety), he also referred to the "small producers" term that I don't like, because they are also producers & the mention tastes like discrimination to me. Those who get used to using selected yeasts don't stop using them, especially if they know how to work them well.
Vasconi emphasized that we agree with maintaining tradition, but he asked: is it correct to use stainless steel, polyethylene tanks for fermentation, pectolytic enzymes, etc.? As a Spanish journalist said "we should not be afraid of the introduction of technology when what we are looking for is the improvement of the final product...".
Undoubtedly, all those present agreed that the development of native yeasts should be encouraged. Marco Zúñiga from the Majes Tradición Winery in Arequipa indicated that selected yeasts are not used in the Arequipa region.
At the end of the meeting, Eng. Lyris Monasterio took the floor and told us, according to the regulations, since the seventies, Pisco was considered a grape spirit, but since the February 2011 Regulations, it has been changed: Pisco is a wine spirit.
Eng Lyris and several of the participants at the meeting consider that Pisco is a grape brandy, not a wine brandy & support it with historical documents and several books where Pisco is mentioned as grape brandy, at no time does it speak of wine brandy, she also tells us that it's the essence of our flagship drink, the difference lies in that according to the rule: "Pisco is the product obtained exclusively by distillation of fresh musts of "Pisco grapes" recently fermented ...". Fresh musts, this makes Pisco unique in the world. Lyris then asked the European Union to create another category with the name of Grape Spirits, currently there're only the categories Wine Spirits (Cognac, Singani, Chile), & Fruit Spirits, where Pisco was included.
The conversation continued on this topic, it was heard that wine involves more than the tradition of our spirit, Engineer Patricia Linares asked: if it is a wine spirit, how is our green must? (Let us remember that in the case of green must the fermentation is interrupted), therefore, the process has not finished, it has not become wine & is then distilled. (It's being indicated in the modification of the regulation that it would be a semi-dry wine).
Although it's true that Pisco has been included in the modification as a "wine spirit", it's important to continue seeking opinions on this issue and reach an agreement that benefits Pisco.
At the end Dr. Meloni took the floor, "many things are said about the Regulatory Council, the truth is that nobody wants to actively participate in the Regulatory Council and he adds that every time a meeting is called where the President of the Council is present nobody asks to speak and when the President is not present only complaints are heard."
"I just remind them that the elections for the new members of the Regulatory Council of the Pisco Appellation of Origin are in May." Enjoy pisco responsibly.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
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May 2016
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