Negra Criolla: when the “simple” becomes excellence
Placeres magazine edition No 23 grateful for the opportunity
“Without a shadow of a doubt, Father Bernabé Cobo stated: ‘The most useful and necessary plant that the Spaniards have brought and planted in this New World is the vine.’” (Cobo, Bernabé. Historia del Nuevo Mundo, 1653).
A few years ago, at a pisco festival, I told a friend that the only piscos truly worth it were Quebranta and Italia. The others, although technically piscos, were made from grapes that were hardly seen in Ica’s vineyards: Negra Criolla, Mollar, Albilla… Better, as one of my professors used to say, to “play it safe” and stick with the first two. Who would have imagined that, some time later, I would taste a Negra Criolla pisco so extraordinary that I asked the producer how much he planned to sell it for, because, in my opinion, that spirit was priceless.
The pisco grape Negra Criolla—also known as Negra Corriente, Criolla Chica, Mission (in California), País (in Chile), and internationally as Listán Prieto (VIVC 6843)—is a red variety originating in Spain, probably from Castile-La Mancha or Extremadura. It arrived in the New World with the conquistadors in the 16th century and was among the first vines planted in the Americas. It played a key role in colonial viticulture, adapting perfectly to the warm soils and climates of the Peruvian coast, especially in Ica, Lima, and Moquegua. It is considered one of the progenitors of Quebranta, the result of a natural cross with Mollar. Fun fact: Negra Criolla is a true “survivor.” Although it practically disappeared in Europe after the phylloxera plague, it remains alive and well in the Americas, serving as a historical pillar of pisco.
It is a rustic plant, highly resistant to aridity and to the sandy soils of our coast. It tolerates extreme heat and drought well, which makes it ideal for traditional pisco-producing areas. It presents round berries with thick skins and an intense black-bluish color, with juicy, unpigmented pulp. It is a vigorous and productive vine, though less aromatic than varieties such as Italia, Moscatel, or Torontel.
What do I look for in a good Negra Criolla pisco?
Sight: always limpid, colorless, and bright.
Nose: first impression is fresh and clean, with memories of the countryside, vineyard, the woody part of the vine, and a slight toast. On a second nosing, white fruits appear (apple and pear predominate), with a very subtle sweetness. It is a rather “flat” and neutral pisco aromatically, but honest and elegant.
Palate: it should confirm what is perceived on the nose. Medium to high alcohol that is pleasant and well integrated, never aggressive. White fruit, black raisins, good persistence (more than 20 seconds indicates high quality), and a finish with notes of dried fruit and pecan skin.
Lately I’ve been greatly enjoying acholados that blend Negra Criolla with Italia, Torontel, or Albilla. Negra Criolla contributes rusticity, herbaceous notes, dry grass, and a very subtly citrusy and sweet backdrop that, combined with the aromatic varieties, achieves perfect harmony. Enjoy pisco responsibly.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Placeres magazine No. 23 january 08, 2026
Pisco & music
Where pisco is the only protagonist!
#lapiscoteca #piscosour #winelover #pisco #pasionporlacata #bar #elpiscoesdelperu #vino #vinosdelperu #pisco #piscolover #Lima #Peru #Moquegua #Tacna #Arequipa #Ica #piscopunch #piscosour #piscotonic #capitan #chilcanodepisco
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