Our native grape
Cocktail Magazine edition No 57, grateful for the opportunity.
There is no doubt that Quebranta grape was born in Ica. According to the book by journalist Master of Wine Jancis M. Robinson "A complete guide to 1368 grape varieties, including their origins and flavors", Quebranta grape is a natural cross between LISTAN PRIETO (known as Mission) and NEGRAMOLL (known as Negra Mole). Both were brought by the Spanish conquerors in XVI century. In the book, it's also mentioned that Quebranta is used for the production of our National spirit, pisco. It only grows in Peru.
Therefore, it's our native grape. The majority of Quebranta Piscos that win national contest belong to the Ica region, although Piscos with this grape variety are produced in practically all Pisco regions. In a tasting, it can be distinguished whether it's from Ica or not, especially if the taster is from Ica or a master distiller. I'm not from Ica, but I learned to drink Quebranta Pisco in Ica after working for over 15 years. The best ones are from Santiago in the south, although there're also very good ones from the Villacuri desert (plain). It's said that the desert produces the sweetest Quebranta grape in the region, making it highly prized. As an anecdotal fact, I can tell you that in the 90s, we were paid S/.0.50 (US$0.13.- Today), per kilo of this grape.
The truth is that an Ica Quebranta is easy to identify: fresh sensations & a warm, powerful and energetic entry. Its 42° or more of alcohol help with this perception that gradually lightens in the palate over time. The pecan or pecan shell finish results in a typical bitterness. The aftertaste returns to the sensation of grape, black raisins, and fresh herbs, indicating how well the spirit has been crafted. There are Quebrantas in other Pisco regions such as Arequipa, Lima, or Tacna, which are just as good or even better than those from Ica with differences in their typicity or characteristics. In my case, I prefer the ones from Ica, except for that Pisco Señorío de Sayán from 2006 which was excellent. I believe that each Pisco region should gather its Quebranta Piscos and its tasters to conduct organoleptic profile workshops. They should also search for the descriptors of the Quebrantas that are produced in their respective fields so that they can compete on equal terms with other Piscos made from our native grape. Note that it's called Quebranta (break, broken), because the bunches are abundant, very heavy, and end up breaking the branches. That is where the name comes from.
Another Pisco variety that we find in Ica region is the one made with the aromatic Torontel grape, belonging to the muscat family. Great Piscos are produced with this grape variety. The one that grows in the Ocucaje valley on the outskirts of Ica is well-known, where most of the Torontel vineyards are located. It's difficult to find it in other Pisco regions. Generally, Torontel Piscos are from Ica. The difference with another aromatic variety like Italia is its more subtly in aromas that recall orange blossom. Torontel does not saturate our senses like Italia grape (Italy). It's more elegant with predominant citrus sensations, with a finish where we can perceive a delicious bitterness of lime skin in the throat. They are extraordinary Piscos. I'm sure that good times are coming for Pisco. Always with responsibility.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Cocktail Magazine No. 57 october 08, 2022.
Cocktail magazine (spanish) in issuu
Pisco & music
October 2022.
Where pisco is the only protagonist!
#lapiscoteca #piscosour #winelover #pisco #pasionporlacata #bar #elpiscoesdelperu #vino #vinosdelperu #pisco #piscolover #Lima #Peru #Moquegua #Tacna #Arequipa #Ica
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