Livio Pastorino

Projections for Pisco

As lovers of Pisco, we have some goals that we would like Pisco to achieve. One of them is to make Pisco, gastronomy, and Peruvian wine a unified team. We want one of our Pisco cocktails to be the star, accompanied by a dish from our cuisine served with a wine from our land. Additionally, we want to see the best spirit in the world offered with dessert. It's time for this to become a custom in Peruvian restaurants.

Beyond the gastronomic realm, we hope that the new authorities of the Regulatory Council for the Appelation of Origin Pisco will be selected to continue defending our National Heritage, thereby conclude with the modification and proper publication of the Pisco Appelation of Origin Regulations.

We need to continue researching and looking for historical information in notarial protocols in Ica, ancient documents found in the National Library. This requires funding, as historian Lorenzo Huertas constantly reminds us that these documents are being lost & must be digitized.

We need to continue working on Pisco grapes to find out which variety was referred to as "Italia" (Italy), in the 19th century & how it differs from A. Pirovano, which arrived in the early 1900s. We also need to find out when and by whom the Pisco Sour, Chilcano de Pisco, Capitan, (Captain), and other cocktails were created & what the correct recipes are.

I once heard a professor say, "We need to go back to the fields." Planting Pisco grapes is crucial. I emphasize the excellent work carried out by the Cite Agro Industrial Ica. It's important to have affordable strains of all Pisco grape varieties ready to be planted; that is the way forward.

This reminds me when I worked in the Villacuri desert in Ica, (Pampa de Villacuri), where we planted ungrafted Quebranta grapes directly from cuttings. We planted about 8 hectares, in those days, we didn't plant grafted patterns to avoid phylloxera attacks, which were done with table grape cuttings. Three years later, we saw the grape clusters, and to our surprise, none of them were the same: white, red, and the unmistakable Quebranta. We were sure we had bought Quebranta cuttings, but what we had was a field of acholados (blended). This was in 1993-94, only 20 years ago; we could not acquire the 8 Pisco grape varieties we needed. Today, it's possible.

One more objective for this year is to ensure that all producers, bartenders, tasters, sommeliers, chefs, communicators, enthusiasts, and others, speak the same message when it comes to Pisco. As Pisco is not a liqueur & we have three types of Pisco - puro (neat), acholado (blended), and mosto verde (green must), - we should only consume Piscos that include their Appelation of Origin authorization on the label. Let's make that effort. Enjoy Pisco responsibly.

Til next time!

By Livio Pastorino Wagner Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo

 

Pisco & music 

Cocktail Magazine No. 11 marzo 03, del 2017

 

Cocktail magazine (spanish) in issuu

 

March 2017

 

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