Livio Pastorino

Torontel: Perfume and Identity

Placeres Magazine, edition No 16, grateful for the opportunity.

Behind every pisco, there is always a new story to tell. Among the wide range of authorized pisco grapes in Peru, Torontel holds a special place. Its delicate muscat-like aroma, golden-hued clusters, and ability to express elegance in distillates have made it a favorite among both tasters and producers. However, its identity remains shrouded in persistent confusion: Is it the same as the Argentine Torrontés? Is it related to the Chilean Torontel? Is it perhaps a cross? Current evidence is clear: the Peruvian Torontel is not a recognized hybrid and shares no confirmed genetic ties with other South American varieties that bear its name. This article explores its characteristics, origin, and true personality in order to reaffirm its authenticity within Peru’s winegrowing heritage.

Torontel belongs to the group of Peru’s aromatic pisco grapes, alongside Italia, Albilla, and Moscatel. It displays intense floral aromas reminiscent of orange blossom, jasmine, magnolia, lemon verbena, and fresh tropical fruits. Its sensory profile is among the most elegant of all single-varietal piscos, offering a refined and well-structured experience highly appreciated by tasters and consumers alike. Although it shares a phonetic root with Argentina’s Torrontés family—varieties such as Riojana, Sanjuanina, and Mendocina—it is not directly related to them. Genetic studies by This et al. (2006) demonstrated that the Argentine Torrontés Riojana is a cross between Listán Prieto and Muscat of Alexandria. However, the Peruvian Torontel has not been classified as a hybrid and does not appear in these studies, confirming its genetic independence.

It also does not match the variety known as Torontel in Chile, registered as VIVC No. 15465 in the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC), one of the most authoritative global databases on grapevine varieties. The Chilean variety has been morphologically and molecularly characterized by that country’s INIA (Ibacache et al., 2015), showing clear differences from the Peruvian accession. In fact, Peru’s Torontel has yet to be registered individually in this international database, a gap that appears to be more administrative than technical, yet it underscores its uniqueness and the need for deeper formal characterization.

Although its exact origin has not been fully documented, it is believed that Torontel arrived in Peru during the colonial period, possibly from Spain or Portugal. What is evident, however, is its remarkable adaptation to the warm, dry valleys of southern Peru, especially in Ica (Santiago, Ocucaje), and more recently, in areas of Lima such as Cañete and Pativilca. Morphologically, it produces loose, conical clusters of medium to large size, with oval berries that turn golden yellow. Harvest typically takes place in March, although in warmer zones it may begin as early as late February. In the field, it shows good heat resistance but is sensitive to powdery mildew and botrytis. Yields average between 20,000 and 22,000 kg/ha under trellising systems and short pruning.

Torontel is officially listed among the eight grape varieties authorized for pisco production, according to the Regulation of the Designation of Origin Pisco (CRDO-PISCO, 2011), further supporting its status as a heritage grape. Despite some publications that continue to link it to Argentine Torrontés or Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, current evidence does not support such connections. There are no recent, peer-reviewed molecular publications confirming any hybrid origin. The confusion may stem from cases of synonymy and the migration of plant material during colonial times, but this does not imply shared genetic or functional identity.

In a viticultural landscape where confusion between similarly named varieties has long been the norm, Peru’s Torontel asserts itself as a distinct variety with its own personality, history, and expression. It is not a cross, not a replica, and certainly not related to the Argentine Torrontés or Chilean namesakes. Its aromatic nature, its elegance in pisco, and its deep roots in southern Peruvian valleys make it a true national winegrowing treasure. To recognize its uniqueness is also to honor the richness and diversity of Peru’s pisco identity. Enjoy pisco responsibly. Until next time!

By Livio Pastorino Wagner Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo

Placeres Magazine,  No. 16
june 09, 2025

Pisco & music

Where pisco is the only protagonist!
#lapiscoteca #piscosour #winelover #pisco #pasionporlacata #bar #vino #vinosdelperu #piscolover #Lima #Peru #Moquegua #Tacna #Arequipa #Ica #piscopunch #piscosour #piscotonic #capitan #chilcanodepisco

All rights reserved. Total or partial reproduction is authorized as long as proper credit is given to the author and active links to the source are provided."