A personal exercise
Cocktail Magazine edition No 37, grateful for the opportunity.
When we talk about grape descriptors, their aromatic profile or other indicators, some people unfamiliar with wine tasting wonder about the origin of that information: is there any technical support that confirms it? At those moments, it is important to remember that we are talking about a hedonistic, subjective practice. Nevertheless, there are research and studies that allow us to validate our work. For example, from 2007 to 2011, the author of this text participated in two workshops given by Eng. Juan Carlos Palma, responsible for the Viticulture Research Center of the National Agrarian University here in Lima, about the sensory profiles of the 8 Pisco grape varieties and the aromatic and non-aromatic green must Pisco. The participation of 25 tasters from the 5 Pisco-producing regions was also counted. After its first realization in Peru, Mr. Palma continued with the work at the University of Zaragoza (Spain, 2013), adding more information about the fruit characteristics.
The methodology consisted of blind tastings: only the grape variety was revealed. Each taster had a sheet to fill out their perceptions in sight, smell & taste. Then, the results were compared to identify the aromas that were perceived to a greater or lesser extent. Finally, the evaluations were delivered with the aim of developing a chart that showed the most repeated descriptors. The work was done with pure Pisco varieties and green musts (mosto verde), from different regions.
In this way, we were able to identify a lot of characteristics that were disseminated to be used in regional and national Pisco contests. The point I'm making with this exercise is that nothing is absolute or written in stone. That is why conducting these workshops is so important in the search for descriptors that can unify criteria around each of the Pisco grape variants by region. We all know that the Quebranta grape is produced largely in Ica, and the tasters from that region have their own descriptors to evaluate a Quebranta. But what happens with Piscos of the same variety in other regions? Maybe they will have the same peculiarities, and the aromatic profile will be the same in different climates and soils... However, as a taster practices, they educate their senses and offer probable impressions.
However, it's genetically proven that no two people perceive in the same way. So how do we explain the aroma or taste of a fruit we don't know? We work on possibilities. For example, if we identify a citrus, which one? Maybe it reminds us of lime. But what if we don't know that particular fruit, but we know its essence? At that moment, others may say it reminds them of grapefruit, lemon, tangerine... And the conclusion would be the same: is there a hint of acidity? Yes. That's why this work is an extremely personal exercise.
Tasting describes the intimacy of Pisco and wine. It is important to take the time to think about what we are drinking. We must start looking, smelling, tasting, breaking down flavors, recognizing characteristics. We must, in other words, learn to drink wisely. Sure there are coming better times for pisco! Enjoy it responsibly.
Til next time!
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Cocktail Magazine No. 37 february 04, 2021.
Cocktail magazine (spanish) in issuu
Pisco & music
February 2021
Where pisco is the only protagonist!
#lapiscoteca #piscosour #winelover #pisco #pasionporlacata #bar #elpiscoesdelperu #vino #vinosdelperu #pisco #piscolover #Lima #Peru #Moquegua #Tacna #Arequipa #Ica
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