A Whispering Pisco
Placeres magazine edition No 21 grateful for the opportunity
Another non-aromatic or less aromatic variety of grape used for pisco is Mollar. This variety, along with Listán Prieto or Negra Criolla (Black Creole), gave rise by mutation to our emblematic grape Quebranta. Like all pisco grapes, it arrived in Peru with the Spaniards in the 16th century, probably from the Canary Islands or Andalusia. It is believed that its name derives from “mollar” (from Latin mollis, soft), alluding to the texture of its pulp or skin. However, there is another interesting version. During my course as a Pisco and Wine Specialist at the Instituto del Vino y del Pisco (IDVIP), I conducted research on the Mollar grape, in which I found an alternative explanation: the name might come from the way vineyards are managed using stakes from the molle tree, leading to the term “molle-mollar.” Peruvian Mollar is a traditional variety whose genetic identity could be linked to Mollar Cano (registered as access number 7929 in the Vitis International Variety Catalogue, VIVC). However, its use in pisco is unique thanks to the Peruvian terroir.
Although less cultivated than Quebranta or Italia, in recent years some wineries have started producing pure Mollar piscos to highlight its uniqueness. In my opinion, the valleys in the southern region of Lima produce the best Mollar piscos, without detracting from those in Ica. In other pisco-producing regions, among the less aromatic varieties, Negra Criolla, Quebranta, and Uvina stand out (the latter limited to three districts in Cañete, Lima region).
Mollar significantly contributes to the diversity and the strengthening of pisco’s national identity. Let’s not forget that in 2024, pisco was recognized by UNESCO as part of the Memory of the World Program, further reinforcing its cultural value. Its yield is moderate (less than Quebranta but greater than Uvina), which makes it especially valuable for high-quality piscos, particularly Mosto Verde (Must Green),. In recent years, producers from Lima and Ica have experimented with single-varietal Mollar piscos to showcase its unique profile, generating interest in international markets that value authenticity.
Su rendimiento es moderado (menor que la Quebranta, pero mayor que la Uvina), lo que la hace especialmente valiosa para elaborar piscos de alta calidad, en particular el Mosto Verde. En los últimos años, productores de Lima e Ica han experimentado con mono varietales de Mollar para destacar su perfil único, generando interés en mercados internacionales que valoran la autenticidad.
Sensory Profile of Mollar Piscos
From my experience — remembering that nothing is set in stone in tasting and everything is open to discussion — Mollar pisco has an aromatic profile very similar to Quebranta, which can often cause confusion. The key characteristic for me is a slight sweetness perceived in Mollar, absent in Quebranta.
Most common aromatic and tasting descriptors:
Aromas: fresh, with notes of white fruit (apple, pear, quince), herbal notes (fresh grass), caramel, black raisins, and a slightly spicy note.
Palate: warm entry, balanced alcohol, repeating the aromas on the nose (white fruits, herbs, raisins, sweetness), with a finale of dried fruits.
Compared to other varieties, Quebranta offers a more neutral, flat, and powerful profile, while Italia stands out for its floral and aromatic character. Mollar, on the other hand, is more subtle on the nose but complex on the palate, making this pisco ideal for enjoying neat.
Mollar in Acholados (Blended), and Mosto Verde (Must Green)
In blends, Mollar adds body and structure, softening intense notes from aromatic grapes like Torontel or Moscatel. For example, an Acholado (blended) with 60% Mollar and 40% Italia provides a perfect balance between sweet fruity notes and a robust character.
Regarding Mollar Mosto Verde pisco, as well as Mosto Verde Acholados — which are rare and difficult to find but not impossible — the result is a more refined distillate (requiring up to 12 kg of grapes per liter compared to 6-8 kg for pure pisco). Its profile is more elegant, with toasted notes, candied fruit, and a creamy, silky finish on the palate. Always enjoy pisco responsibly.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Placeres magazine No. 21 november 08, 2025
Pisco & music
November 2025
Where pisco is the only protagonist!
#lapiscoteca #piscosour #winelover #pisco #pasionporlacata #bar #elpiscoesdelperu #vino #vinosdelperu #pisco #piscolover #Lima #Peru #Moquegua #Tacna #Arequipa #Ica #piscopunch #piscosour #piscotonic #capitan #chilcanodepisco
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