Livio Pastorino

Uvina: The grape from the valley that cannot be replicated“

Placeres Magazine, edition No 24, grateful for the opportunity.

"Among the warm valleys of southern Lima, where Quebranta gives way to other forms of life, grows a unique grape variety in the world: uvina, a grape that responds only to its own territory and that, like a good pisco, holds within itself the character of its land."

Uvina is a variety recognized by the Regulations of the Pisco Denomination of Origin, although it does not fully belong to the species Vitis vinifera. This detail, often simplified,
is key to understanding and appreciating its singularity within the world of pisco.

Origin and botanical nature
Of American origin, uvina is traditionally associated with southern Peru, in valleys such as Cañete and Lunahuaná. Ampelographic and genetic studies confirm its kinship with American species, which explains its agronomic and sensory differences compared to classic Vitis vinifera grapes. It is important to note that it is recognized by the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), where it is listed as Jacquez, and registered in the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC). These international endorsements validate its identity and confirm that it is not a “local” grape without foundation, but rather an exceptional American lineage within the Denomination of Origin. It coexists with varieties such as Quebranta, Negra Criolla, and Mollar, although with a clearly distinct genetic base.

Behavior in the vineyard and winery
From a viticultural perspective, it stands out for its adaptation to warm and dry climates, its relative resistance to diseases, and variable yields depending on management. In the winery, it requires special attention: it yields naturally acidic musts and subtle olfactory profiles, resulting in sober, structured piscos with a marked territorial accent.

Sensory profile
In tasting, it presents fresh aromas—olive leaf, olive, oil, red fruits, herbs, and earthy tones—with a firm palate, slight rusticity, and a dry finish. It has lower aromatic intensity compared to more expressive varieties, but with a defined personality, it is valued by experienced tasters for its depth and close connection to its origin.

Uvina at the tasting table
It is one of the most challenging piscos: contradictory, temperamental, and evolving. Its fresh note, associated with olive or olive oil, can be intimidating, demanding time, concentration, and sensory honesty. Its stylistic closeness to Quebranta often causes confusion—people frequently wonder whether it is an acholado (blended), or a flaw—which can lead to evaluation errors. To overcome sensory conditioning, where Quebranta usually dominates the reference pattern for less aromatic grapes, I recommend tasting it on several occasions and carefully separating the descriptors. An effective exercise is a blind tasting with three Quebrantas and one uvina, trying to identify the different one. Although the exercise is subjective, trained tasters usually manage to distinguish it.

Current context, microclimate, and singularity
Today it occupies a reduced space in pisco production, but it holds high symbolic and cultural value. Traditional to Lunahuaná, Pacarán, and Zúñiga, it features small blue-black berries, abundant clusters, and a unique adaptation to altitudes where Quebranta does not thrive. Its piscos are structured, with a characteristic green note and greater astringency. Its development depends on a very specific microclimate in the Cañete River valley (yunga zone, between 550 and 650 meters above sea level): constant sun and gravelly soils that favor sugar concentration. It does not behave the same way in other territories, even in experimental experiences outside the country, such as in Israel.

Testimonies and cultural aspects
Producer Julio Vidal Rivadeneira defended its registration in international records as early as 2008, highlighting its territorial enigma. Uvina releases a pure tint rich in flavonoids, traditionally associated in the area with cachina and longevity. Earlier studies—such as those conducted in Uruguay—suggested possible local mutations, now compatible with its identification as Jacquez by the OIV. These elements demonstrate the evolution of knowledge: from local observation to global recognition. Uvina is not a marginal grape, but a living expression of adaptation, territory, and memory, enriching the diversity and complexity of pisco. Finally, without a doubt, uvina tests the accumulation of our experiences and reminds us that tasting is not just identifying aromas, but understanding identities. Let’s enjoy pisco responsibly.

Til next time!

By Livio Pastorino Wagner Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo

Placeres Magazine, No. 24 february 10, 2026

Pisco & music

Where pisco is the only protagonist!
#lapiscoteca #piscosour #winelover #pisco #pasionporlacata #bar #elpiscoesdelperu #vino #vinosdelperu #pisco #piscolover #Lima #Peru #Moquegua #Tacna #Arequipa #Ica #piscopunch #piscosour #piscotonic #capitan #chilcanodepisco


All rights reserved. Total or partial reproduction is authorized as long as proper credit is given to the author and active links to the source are provided."