Peruvian spirits
Revista Cocktail edition No 52, grateful for the opportunity.
I share some of the tastings carried out in recent months evaluating different spirits. The purpose was to support producers of pisco and other spirits: orange, cocoa, sugarcane, golden pineapple, and a white sweet Burgundy (Borgoña), wine. In Peru, we have a great variety of high-quality spirits that don't reach the markets, especially in Lima. We seek to evaluate quality so that producers can improve their processes. We also put ourselves in the place of consumers, what would they like to drink before, during, or after a meal? We tasted a Pisco Toro Muerto Moscatel (Muscat), from Arequipa, Uraca Valley, Castilla, 42% vol alc. In my opinion, the best Moscateles (Muscats), and Negras Criollas (Black Creiole), are made in this region. It enters strenth, warms the taste, oily, intense, pleasant memories of toasted bread. Both fresh white fruit and light floral sensations are appreciated in aromas & taste, as well as spicy notes, yellow pepper. It's balanced & elegant. I accompanied with sweet fresh figs (home harvest) and vanilla ice cream.
From Ica we taste a distilled Tangelo (Orange), "Tony Labis" vol alc 40%; made in the Fundo Tres Esquinas, Subtanjalla, Ica. It reminded me of Italian Limoncello, although the latter is a liqueur. The difference lies in its preparation. It uses a wine or other origin alcohol to macerate with some fruit, peels, water syrup, sugar, etc. In this case, the fermented orange juice is distilled. The citrus sensation is pleasant. A versatile distilled spirit perfect as an aperitif or for mixing cocktails. To finish lunch, I accompanied it with a piece of panettone, (paneton), dropping a few drops to moisten. Serving temperature 12 to 16°C.
The Kakawi from the San Martin region was the next one with 40% vol alc. Made from the sugars of the mucilage of the fresh fruit of Cacao (Theobroma Cacao) and distilled in a copper pot still. It's well perceived in aromas & taste. I liked those memories of dry grass, field, dry grass that mark the nose. Ideal for accompanying very sweet desserts: "suspiro a la limeña" or fudge with ice cream. A challenge for bartenders to create endless variations of cocktails. I accompanied it with chocolate & lucuma mousse. Serving temperature 12 to 16°C.
Also we taste a sugarcane distilled of Junin region "Don Charlie." Made at the Rondayacu Farm, Chanchamayo, vol alc 40%. Well-crafted, fresh, warms the mouth. I see a great opportunity with these spirits. Serving temperature 16 to 18°C. We tried a golden pineapple spirit "Kiteni / Leticia." Made at the Leticia Satipo Farm, vol alc 40%. Another spirit to be used in mixology. There's much room for improvement, especially in fermentation processes: double distillation & hydration if necessary. Kiteni is hydrated and includes golden pineapple as an ingredient. Serving temperature 16 to 18°C.
From Cañete, Lima; they sent us a white Burgundy wine (Vino de Borgoña blanca). It's important to know about Isabella grape, known in Peru as Peruvian Burgundy (Borgoña). Origin: first of all nothing to do with the french region. There's no certainty about the origin of this grape, let alone its arrival to our lands, but some authors like Historian Eduardo Dargent suggest that "it's speculated that it's a cross between a Vitis labrusca and some variety of Vitis vinifera, and its place of origin would be the current state of Southern California (United States). In 1816, this grape was introduced in New York by Colonel George Gibbs and later named Vitis Isabella, in honor of Colonel Gibbs' wife, Isabella Gibbs." However, the website http://lescepages.free.fr/, which has served as the basis for many of our writings, talks about the introduction of this grape to the Island of Reunion since 1665, although in another paragraph it also mentions Isabella Gibbs". Taken from blog 'El Profe Sabe' (The Teacher knows), more information click the link
Both red & white sweet wines are the most consumed wines in Peru. We tasted a "Tinkapa" of White Burgundy, (Borgoña), Semi-Dry. It was very well crafted, sweet, balanced, and tasty. I paired it with citrus desserts: passion fruit mousse or lemon chocoteja. The serving temperature is between 8 to 12°C. Always drink responsibly.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Cocktail Magazine No. 52, mayo 03 del 2022.
Cocktail magazine (spanish) in issuu
Pisco & music
May 2022.
Where pisco is the only protagonist!
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