Let's talk about Pisco
With the Peruvian Tasters Association "ASPERCAT", we have held three "Let's Talk about Pisco" conversations through the Zoom platform. The first one was "Does Pisco improve with age?" On that occasion, we had Eng. Juan Carlos Palma as a special guest. We also recall that he was the organizer of a study on the same topic carried out in 2015.
The conclusions were very similar to those reached in that first study: a definitive answer cannot be given regarding whether Piscos improve or worsen with time. I opened a bottle of Quebranta from 2010 for this occasion. Did I find any changes in the Pisco with more than 5 years? My perception was yes. In the aromas, very light almost nil, the freshness of the distillate is lost, the persistence in the palate is low, it flattens. In the opinion of the other participants, for the case of the aromatic ones, they perceived that they retain their aromas better, although they always lose freshness. Caramelized aromas, overripe fruit, and honey are marked both on the nose and in the palate, the persistence is better than in the less aromatic ones.
It's always said "the customer is always right." Will there be consumers who like those sweet sensations of the most aromatic ones? In Peru, consumers like sweet things; therefore, there's a market for those Piscos. In the case of the less aromatic ones, the lack of freshness and the power when entering the palate that characterizes young Piscos don't allow us to reach conclusions; the market will decide.
In the second conversation, we talked about the Italia rosada (pink), grape with our special guest Eng. José Carlos Falconi, Master Distiller. We remember that we cannot call it Pisco because Italia rosada is not considered a Pisco grape. José transported us to the history of this grape in North Africa, Egypt, called Muscat of Alexandria. "Product of the natural cross between the Portuguese grape variety Diagalves and the Spanish Moscatel de Málaga/Moscato de grano pequeño/Muscat Blanc á Petits Grains, with which we return to the mother of all varieties of Muscat grapes." (taken blog. Jorge Llanos Goyena, Master, Biologist, Sommelier, Taster).
Likewise, he explained to us that in the last decades of the 20th century, some varieties have been rescued for winemaking and distillation in the Ica Valley, including Black Italia (Hamburg Muscat) and Italia rosada (pink). In addition, in the coastal valleys, varieties or clones of Quebranta, red, white, botija, mollar have been found; although more research is needed to add them as Pisco grapes.
I took advantage of a spirit of Italia rosada that I had saved to follow the tasting notes based on the descriptors that José Carlos found.
View: transparent, clean, bright,
Good density
Nose: Aromas that remind us of intense guava, quince, passion fruit, mango, tropical fruits, pineapple, touches of honey, light mentholated background & orange blossoms.
Taste: Warm entrance, fresh, what is found in the nose is perceived, sweet, medium-long persistence, fruity finish.
Undoubtedly an excellent experience. We appreciate the participation in "Let's Talk about Pisco" of Eng. Juan Carlos Palma and Eng. José Carlos Falconi. Enjoy Pisco responsibly.
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Cocktail Magazine No. 33 october 04, 2020.
Cocktail magazine (spanish) in issuu
Pisco & music
October 2020
Where pisco is the only protagonist!
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