Livio Pastorino

Pisco: Pride with Denomination of Origin

Placeres magazine edition 29 july 06 grateful for the opportunity

Reviewing the Denominations of Origin we have in Peru, we now total 11. We started with Pisco in 1990, followed by Giant White Corn from Cusco (2005), Chulucanas Ceramics from Piura (2006), Ica Lima Bean (2007), Villa Rica Coffee from Pasco (2010), Loche Squash from Lambayeque (2010), Machu Picchu-Huadquiña Coffee from Cusco (2011), Junín Maca (2011), Tacna Olive (2013), Amazonas Cacao (2016), and Tacna Oregano (2024).

What does Denomination of Origin mean? It is the geographical name of a country, region, or locality used to designate a product originating from that place, whose quality or characteristics are due exclusively and essentially to its geographical environment. This includes natural factors (climate, soil, raw material) and human factors (labor, knowledge, skill, and tradition).

The holder of Denominations of Origin is the Peruvian State, which authorizes their use to producers from each region provided they meet the established requirements and regulations. In this way, the authentic product is distinguished and the consumer is informed about its origin and quality. In the case of Pisco, our first Denomination of Origin, how does it fit within a DO framework?

First, “Pisco” is a Quechua word meaning “bird.” The town of the same name, in the province of Ica, is located 200 km south of Lima. The port of Pisco already appeared on maps in 1571, as did the Pisco River. The ceramic jars used to transport the spirit date back to the 16th century and were known as “piscos” or “peruleras botijas.”

Among the most relevant historical documents are the following:

-Researcher Julio Hernández found, in the Notarial Protocols of Ica (García de Córdova Notary, General Archive of the Nation), a public deed of payment between Manuel de Azante and Jorge Capelo from 1587, mentioning a distillation still and large quantities of wine and brandy.

-Historian Lorenzo Huertas Vallejos discovered in the 1613 will of Pedro Manuel “El Griego” the mention of tools and jars for brandy.

-Ambassador Gonzalo Gutiérrez made public documents showing the export of Pisco brandy jars to Guatemala in 1712.

These findings demonstrate the antiquity of the denomination, the importance of the geographical environment, and the use of the name “Pisco” for the distillate that was shipped from its port. Regarding the climate, although Peru is not within the traditional wine belt, the pisco-producing areas (between parallels 12° and 18° south latitude) offer highly favorable conditions, especially on the central-southern coast. Added to this is a winemaking tradition dating back to the 16th century, passed down from generation to generation.

Our Denomination of Origin for Pisco was granted 35 years ago through Directoral Resolution No. 072087-DIPI of December 12, 1990, and ratified by Supreme Decree No. 001-91-ICT/IND of January 16, 1991. The included regions are: Tacna, Moquegua, Arequipa, Ica, and Lima (up to 2,000 meters above sea level).

Something that always caught my attention when I worked in the Villacurí vineyards (Ica) during pruning season (July-August) is that we hired young pruners, many of them from Huancavelica or Ayacucho. Their skill was impressive, as if they carried the trade in their DNA. This confirms what our pisco history professor used to tell us: the Spaniards quickly noticed that the people of Peru were excellent farmers and masters of water management in the coastal desert.Enjoy pisco responsibly.

 

Til next time!

By Livio Pastorino Wagner Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo

Placeres magazine No. 29 julio 07 del 2026

Pisco & music 


Where pisco is the only protagonist!
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